Kashmir in winter: snow, houseboats and hot kahwa

If you've only seen Kashmir in summer photos, winter will surprise you. From mid-December to February, Gulmarg turns into one of Asia's best ski slopes, Dal Lake's houseboats glow against snowy mountains, and every meal ends with a cup of saffron kahwa.

Snow is almost guaranteed in Gulmarg from late December to February. The Gulmarg Gondola's first phase takes you to Kongdori for sledging and snow play; the second phase to Apharwat (nearly 4,000 m) is for skiers and the adventurous. Book gondola tickets in advance during the Christmas-New Year rush.

Houseboats in winter are warmer than you'd think. Good ones - like Sukoon on Dal Lake - have central heating or bukharis (traditional wood stoves), heated blankets and double-glazed windows. A sunset shikara ride with a blanket over your knees is one of Kashmir's quiet joys.

Pack properly: thermals, a down jacket, waterproof snow boots, gloves and a woollen cap. Most hotels in Gulmarg rent ski jackets and boots, so you don't need to buy everything. Remember that prepaid SIMs from other states don't work in Jammu & Kashmir - carry a postpaid connection.

Plan a buffer day. Heavy snowfall occasionally closes the Srinagar-Gulmarg road or delays flights, so we build flexibility into every winter itinerary and re-plan at no extra cost. That's the trade-off for waking up to a world that's completely white - and it's worth it.